Johor Bahru Chingay: JOHOR BAHRU CHINGAY - A Photographer's Perspective

Chinese New Year does not end after the regulation 15 days in Johor Bahru (better known as "JB" to its residents). In fact, since the 1800s, it only winds down after the annual Chingay procession through town, another 6 days after that fifteenth day. This procession literally has a cast of thousands, in terms of both participants and spectators. One newspaper estimate is for the involvement of 300,000 people.

But a strange fact arises: none of the JB residents call the celebrations "Chingay"; it has always been known as You Shen (游神).

But to keep to its English moniker and to avoid confusion, I'll use the term "Chingay" throughout this blog. The word Chingay derives from the Hokkien dialect, for which the Mandarin equivalent is "Zhuang Yi", which means "the art of masquerade".

The processions are not choreographed, and the costumes and float designs are kept secret even from the organisers. There are no rehearsals, and the performances along the route are pretty ad-hoc. This spontaneity all adds to the charm of the event.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

History
Weather
Chingay Programme
Where to spectate
Specific tips for photography at Chingay
Photo galleries
Internet resources

KEYWORDS:

Chinese Association, Chinese New Year, Chingay, Jalan Trus, JB Ancient Temple, Johor Bahru, Malaysia, national heritage, parade, photographer, photography, Xing Gong

HISTORY

Johor Bahru was founded in 1855. In the bad lawless old days, the various Chinese dialect groups living within JB were often unhappy with each other, and clashed frequently. In a gesture of reconciliation, the Gods of the 5 main clans (Teochew, Hokkien, Hakka, Cantonese and Hainan) were placed in Johor Bahru's Ancient Temple on Jalan Trus, and any disputes were settled under the eyes of the Gods.

By name, the 5 deities are “Zhao Da Yuan Shuai” (Hainanese), “Hua Guang Da Di” (Cantonese), “Gan Tian Da Di” (Hakka), “Hong Xian Da Di” (Hokkien) and “Yuan Tian Shang Di” (Teochew).

In JB, the Chingay procession is a religious celebration led by the Johor Bahru Chinese Association, during which the temple deities are taken on an annual “tour” to bless the city with peace, prosperity and harmony.

During this time, the Deities leave the JB Ancient Temple, to reside at a temporary shrine named Xing Gong, 2 km to the north.

The parade route is 2 km long on Day 1 (between the JB Ancient Temple and Xing Gong). The main parade on Day 2 is a circular 8 km route starting and ending at Xing Gong. The procession om Day 3 is again 2 km long, from Xing Gong back to the JB Ancient Temple, to return the Deities home. Nowhere else on Earth does this observance happen; it coalesced in JB out of a search for peace amidst clan politics, and has endured for 143 years.

The Chingay procession is managed by the Ancient Temple Committee, which is a committee under the umbrella of the JB Tionghua Association:

http://www.jb-tionghua.org.my/

Unlike the Chingay celebrations in Singapore, which was enacted in the 1970s as a Government-inspired celebration to cement national identity, the JB Chingay celebrations have been around almost as long as the city has been in existence.

A map of the parade route is below. (with credit to http://weehingthong.wordpress.com/2013/02/23/the-chingay/ )

The Home of the Gods, save for 2 days in the year, is the JB Ancient Temple.

Main gate of the JB Ancient Temple, on Jalan Trus

On the JB Ancient Temple:

http://my.72dragon.com/2900/jo-fo-gu-miao-johor-bahru/

The temple dates back to 1870, when it was built under the guidance of Tan Hiok Nee and friends. The JB Ancient Temple is one of the oldest buildings in JB town that is still in existence.

A good historical narrative on previous Chingay celebrations can be found here:

http://www.nst.com.my/streets/johor/chingay-parade-marks-grand-celebration-1.223961

and here:

http://ppunlimited.blogspot.com/2012/02/jbs-unique-chingay-parade.html

The Chingay parade has grown so massive, that it has been declared a National Heritage Event since 2012, and was graced in 2012 by the presence of the Prime Minister, Datuk Seri Najib.

http://www.nst.com.my/top-news/jb-chingay-parade-gazetted-as-heritage-1.38697

This is THE event in JB’s annual cultural calendar that is worthy of an appearance in the National Geographic. Chaotic, noisy and unscripted and very long, it passes off very loudly and well.

Many roads in the town centre are closed off for the big night parade, so please park before the closures occur. This year, the closures begin sequentially along the parade route from 5.30pm onwards on 2^nd March 2013, with Jalan Ah Fook off-limits by 8pm.

WEATHER AT CHINGAY JB

I have never attended a parade where it rained during the main parade proper. The procession is under the protection of the Gods. A little rain usually falls before the main procession to reduce the heat, and to cleanse the streets for the tour.

CHINGAY PROGRAMME

A few days before Chingay proper, volunteers will set off from the temple to clean and sanitise the parade route.

http://203.115.194.21/news/story.asp?file=/2012/2/11/nation/10720534&sec=nation

The main festivities take place two days later, over 3 days

1) 20^th Day, 1^st Lunar Month (Friday 1^st March 2013)

The procession of 5 Gods leaves the temple in the morning at 11am, to proceed northwards up Jalan Trus, past the Landmark Tower and Wisma Maria, and up Persiaran Tun Razak to reach a temporary shrine at Ulu Ayer Molek (Xing Gong). The Xing Gong is adjacent to the Chinese Association Columbarium (opposite the Danga City Mall shopping complex).

They procession is accompanied by a throng of temple groups, lion and dragon dance troupes, and costumed performers. Temporary shrines are set up along the route for offertory rituals. Enjoy the firecrackers, drums and clash of cymbals, and the prayers offered by devotees along the route, and at Xing Gong.

Deity en route.

An echelon of dragons in homage

Paying homage at a temporary shrine


Prayers at Xing Gong


Prayers at Xing Gong

2) 21^st Day, 1^st Lunar Month (Saturday 2^nd March 2013). The night-time Chingay parade proper.

Starting at 6pm from an assembly point at Jalan Ulu Ayer Molek, participants start a huge march on foot with lion and dragon troupes, lorry-mounted floats, and performing artistes, to accompany the Procession of The Deities through Johor Bahru town. There are huge flags. Stiltwalkers. Dancers. Singers. Performers. Martial arts troupes. Big-headed dolls. Temple groups and devotees. The Gods are taken from their temporary repose at the Xing Gong to circumnavigate the town, each taking their place within the procession. They will return to Xing Gong at the conclusion of the march.

The procession heads southwards along Jalan Ayer Awal and Jalan Ayer Molek, turns eastward onto the seafront at the Istana Besar Gardens proceeding along Jalan Ibrahim at the waterfront, and then swings northwards up Jalan Ah Fook.

The procession reaches the main performing area (a stage with VIPS opposite the City Square Shopping Complex) usually at 9pm, and in 2012, took till 2am to file past that spot. The business elite, clan association heads and politicians are all on the stage.

Chief Minister Dato Abdul Ghani Othman looks on from the main stage

The stage opposite City Square, with Jalan Wong Ah Fook immersed in a sea of believers

Heads down!

High Lion

God on tour

Unrestricted joy and exuberance

God of Prosperity


Pyrotechnic dragon

Journey to the West

One of the many floats

The participants then finish their march at the same spot that the 20^thDay marchpast ended, by marching up Persiaran Tun Razak to the Xing Gong.

3) 22^nd Day, 1^st Lunar Month (Sunday 3^rd March 2013)

The Gods are returned in procession from the shrine to the ancient temple, retracing southwards along the same route taken on the 20th Day.

WHERE TO SPECTATE AT JOHOR BAHRU CHINGAY

Anywhere along the parade route. There are some who will bring a chair and watch the entire parade from one spot, spectating as the whole parade passes by. (I prefer to keep mobile).

No admission fees. Toilets are in short supply, and the route is quite long. (about 8km on Saturday 2nd March). On the morning parades, please wear sun protection and avoid heatstroke. Use the direction of the sun to your advantage. Come well armed with batteries and memory cards!

There are lots of vendors selling fluids and snacks en route, so that is not a problem. Charitable groups also donate refreshments and light snacks.

The long parade is arduous for the performers, whose strength, determination and stamina give me inspiration.

In front of the stage at City Square is very good place for spectacular close-up shots.

The elevated vantage point from the balconies of the Plaza Seni car park is a great spot for aerial shots, but please raise your ISO and come with a sufficiently long lens.

The long raised embankment on the western edge of Jalan Ah Fook is also a good spot with some elevation.

SPECIFIC TIPS FOR PHOTOGRAPHY AT CHINGAY

This is covered in detail elsewhere in the Blog:

http://johorbahruchingay.blogspot.com/2013/03/techniques-for-photographing-chingay.html